A lined pocket for a garment frequently has a row of stitching across the upper outer part of that pocket. All too often, that row of stitching creates, or facilitates the creation of, "puckers", and those puckers can provide an unsightly appearance for that pocket.
Appearance, as well as utility, is important in the making and marketing of wearing apparel; and puckers inherently detract from the appearance of wearing apparel. The March 1971 Technical Information Bulletin of American Thread is entitled PUCKER; and it includes many statements regarding "pucker" and "puckering". That bulletin refers to the puckering problem, and then tries to teach manufacturers of wearing apparel "How To Combat Pucker". A few of the many statements regarding "pucker" and "puckering" in that bulletin are:
"One major problem to the apparel manufacturer and to those who serve him is puckering", PA0 "Puckering can happen in almost all apparel sewing operations", PA0 "Many efforts have been made by apparel, sewing machine and needle manufacturers, fiber producers, fabric manufacturers, thread manufacturers and others to suggest ways to minimize the puckering problem", PA0 "American Thread is called upon continually to supply threads that will eliminate or reduce puckering. These requests are made even though it is generally recognized that 80 to 90% of the puckering which occurs is traceable to conditions other than thread. Our extensive research to determine puckering causes, and to suggest ways to eliminate it, has resulted in many helpful hints for the manufacturer". PA0 "Factors that can result in puckering are: Fabric, Thread, Seam Type, Stitch Type, Stitch Rating, Sewing Direction, Operator Techniques, Sewing Operation Adjustments, Needle". PA0 "One type of inherent pucker is brought about by the displacement of the densely woven yarns during sewing by the needle and thread". PA0 "Pucker may not be visible after sewing in some instances but may appear after washing". PA0 "Puckering can often be eliminated before it becomes a problem by first selecting the correct thread for the sewing application". PA0 "Some apparel seams and stitches are more likely to cause puckering than others. When puckering occurs due to seam or stitch types, suitable alternatives should be considered". PA0 "Generally speaking, fewer stitches per inch are preferred to minimize pucker". PA0 "Conversely, if the stitch direction is sewn parallel to the warp, a highly puckered seam can result". PA0 "Shirt manufacturers have found that the appearance of the sewn pocket is very satisfactory if the pockets are cut so the warp runs diagonally to the stitch direction". PA0 "Operator technique is also a major factor in puckering". PA0 "Another common operator cause of pucker is setting a pocket on a shirt. Here an operator often pulls on the shirt front to relocate it after it is partially sewn--producing a similar pucker condition as in the previous example. The best solutions to poor operator technique that result in puckering are obtained using auxiliary aids that reduce operator variability. Automatic collar running devices, pocket setters, and buttonholers are very useful in this respect". PA0 "Frequently, improper adjustments to the sewing machine can be the source of poor seam appearance due to puckering". PA0 "The type and size of needle can be the beginning or the end of your pucker problem". PA0 1. Sew with less tension on both the upper and bottom thread than normal. On stitch type 401, overfeed needle thread to consume 60% with 40% looper thread. PA0 2. Make sure that the tension checkspring is in proper adjustment so that the thread casts off the bobbin case readily. PA0 3. Use the finest size feed dogs possible. Use a size feed dog which best combines with the presser foot and throat plate for the operation involved. PA0 4. Use the least amount of presser foot tension that will permit the movement of the goods during the sewing operation. PA0 5. Use the smallest size needle possible considering undue needle breakage. PA0 6. Use the smallest throat plate opening possible to prevent the fabric from being pushed down into the throat plate hole during the sewing operation. PA0 7. Use the finest size thread consistent with good sewability. PA0 8. Reduce the number of stitches per inch consistent with good appearance on seams such as closing side seams and attaching shirt pockets. PA0 9. It may be possible to reduce the pucker by slowing down the sewing machine speed. The reduction of speed may permit better operator handling of the pieces during the stitching operation as well as tend to minimize distortion during the acceleration period. PA0 10. In the felling operation, using an LSc-2 seam, be sure that the folders are opened wide enough so that the material does not drag or bind. Consider replacement of defective attachments. PA0 11. Call your American Thread Salesman for assistance. He can also provide the able service of our Sewing Engineers and other Technology Specialists."